The official motto of Austin is “Keep Austin Weird.” As I stood at a park, at sunset, in the rain, staring at a bridge with about 50 other people in the same predicament hoping to get a glimpse of….wait for it…..bats…the motto finally made sense. Yes, you read that correctly - Mexican Free-Tailed bats inhabit the trestles of the South Congress Street Bridge. We will get to these winged creatures later, but first let’s properly introduce our destination.
Austinites (what the locals of Austin are affectionately known as) promote their city as "The Live Music Capital of the World". What most may not know, is that since the late 19th century, Austin has possessed another nickname - "City of the Violet Crown". This nickname was bestowed to the city due to the way the light hits the rolling hills at sunset casing beautiful pastel colors across the horizon.
One of the most popular and well-traveled neighborhoods is the street of South Congress, or SoCo. This street houses all of the popular shops, eateries, bars, galleries, and nightclubs frequented by locals and tourists alike.
Lodging
Host: Lark
I have to start with our lodging as it sets the tone for the rest of our experience in Austin. As a lover of photos and all cheesy ‘gram worthy landscapes, GVO was the place to be. The entire guest house and backyard was right out of an influencers insta story - very “hip” (is that still a thing?).
The first thing I loved about this place was the huge fenced in yard - I should have said the thing Akela loved. Lots of zoomies were had in this yard. The fairy lights on the trees added a nice ambiance to the otherwise barren dirt ground.
The piece de resistance was most DEFINITELY the mural on the side wall. Painted in vibrant pastel colors are the words Good Vibes Only. This is an entrance you won’t mistake.
The inside did not disappoint. In theme with relaxation and pastels, the walls are colored with a soft palette. Above the bed one sees the faint neon of the Good Vibes Only sign.
The best thing about Lark’s space was not just the vibrant mural and mellow decorations, but the attention to detail in making her guests feel like locals. A welcome packet awaited us on an iPad sat in the corner of the extended countertop. Local recommendations for food and shops were provided as well as discounts to some of the favored South Congress (SoCo) neighborhood stomping grounds. As we took Larks suggestions and discounts, I will dive into these below.
Restaurants/Coffee Shops
*Please be sure to check all hours, menu items, and prices as they are subject to change*
Jo’s is known for its locally crafted caffeinated drinks and finger-licking tacos. Although we didn’t stop for coffee, the mural is worth it alone for a paparazzi shot. It became a popular social media spot in 2010 after Amy Cook, a local Austin musician, sprayed the romantic phrase on the side wall for her partner Liz Lambert - the majority owner of Jo’s. Since then, this simple phrase has become a symbol of love and romance for tourists and locals alike.
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Okay, full disclosure, I am not a huge BBQ fan or even a meat eater. BUT! How can I go to Texas and not get Texas BBQ; I would be missing out on a whole food group.
Black‘s BBQ is a local family owned restaurant that have been serving the Austin community for three generations beginning in 1932. Beef brisket is now considered a staple in the BBQ world, but it was not always such. Most famously known for their Brisket, Edgar J. Black was the first to sell cuts of beef Brisket in a BBQ restaurant. When Black's first opened brisket was made with whatever cuts of meat were left from the meat market. Black's unique way of smoking is as follows: after being cooked for eight hours in a wood rotisserie, the meat is then stored for multiple days in a cooler before being smoked again in a brick pit for a final 4 hours. Due to the distinctive way that Black smokes their brisket, it is considered one of the best in Texas. I could have also bathed in their BBQ sauce - YUM.
Black's allows you to order meat by the weight, or slap it on a bun and call it a sandwich. We decided on the sandwich, primarily because I panicked and was unsure of how much weight of meat to purchase - I only get my chipped (shaved) turkey in half pounds. So with the sandwiches, I obviously had to get some Texas BBQ sides. Southern coleslaw was a must and although I'm not coleslaw's biggest fan, the sweetness of the sauce was a nice contrast. The potato salad was gone in seconds and the mac and cheese was exactly that artery clogging cheddar I expected. Last but not least....peach cobbler - now this was just sugary divinity and a perfect ending to your BBQ picnic. Even Akela enjoyed her small slice of meaty heaven.
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Everyone has their go-to late night pizza joint that just hits the spot. After our dance with bats (keep reading for the full tale), we had that late-night craving. Cue, Home Slice. With 10 minutes to spare before closing, we grabbed a pie and some garlic knots. I could have just eaten the knots. Almost as big as my fist, these 4 knots are more than enough to share (or keep all to yourself little piggy).
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Chocolate - okay do I have your attention now? My go to ice cream flavor is anything chocolate. However, I stepped out of my comfort zone (I know, very difficult) and selected Amy’s most well know and well liked flavor - Mexican Vanilla. From their own website, the Mexican Vanilla is a crossbreed from a "traditional Madagascar vanilla bean with a Mexican orchid". One bite and I was singing "I like to move it, move it". Even if you fall on the chocolate side of the coin, this flavor is still not one to be passed up - each bite as if you just licked the back of the cake batter spoon. Better yet, get both. This is exactly what we did - it's called a compromise, right?
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Shopping
*Please be sure to check all hours and prices as they are subject to change*
“Shoes for Tomorrow” the slogan that gained the well-known shoe brand, Toms, it’s name. Founder Blake Mycoskie developed his 1 for 1 model after a 2006 visit to Argentina in which he assisted a woman volunteer who was providing shoeless children shoes.
After returning from Argentina, he began his shoe journey. This 1 for 1 model included providing a pair of shoes for children in developing countries using sales from shoes in North America. Each pair bought in North America would provide one pair for a child in a developing country. Within 6 years, by 2012, Toms had provided 2 million pairs of shoes to children worldwide.
In 2014, Toms expanded its 1 for 1 model to include safe water. It launched Toms Roasting Co. providing safe and clean water to families in coffee-producing regions with each beverage purchase.
Toms launched a Bag Collection in 2015 in which provides kits for safe childbirth practices and training for skilled birth workers.
The Shoes:
Toms now sells a variety of shoes including sandals, slip-ons, heels, sneakers, and dress shoes for men, women, and children. The classic Toms shoe that started it - the alpargata slip-on, is still one of their best sellers. I have a few patterns in my closet right now. Alpargata shoes are the National shoe of Argentina typically made from canvas and rope.
When we visited the second flagship location on South Congress Street, I of course had to browse the stock. They had many varieties available and some on sale and last call clearance. Toms was one of the places in our Welcome Guide from GVO that offered a discount of 10% for shopping local. I selected a white and rainbow pride month pair from the sale section.
The Coffee:
I did forget to use the free coffee discount from GVO, but I didn't miss a chance to try the chai latte while Mike sipped on a mocha. The chai was definitely spicier than my go to Starbucks flavor is. If you enjoy a more herbal and spicy experience then this chai is for you. Mike's go to is always a white mocha, but he decided to go with the dark chocolate today. The mocha was pretty standard and definitely a go-to if you like mochas.
The Bags:
I did not get a chance to glance at their bags in the store, but if you are interested in browsing please click here.
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Parts and Labour is a very cute eclectic shop for those who are looking for some out of the box or unique souvenirs. Pets are most welcome in this shop, much to our delight, because Akela needed some time out of the heat. They even provided some puppy treats, which Akela rudely spit back out (we're still working on our etiquette), and also a bowl of water for the parched pup. As I did a once over of the store, I found that there were so many locally made crafts and objects. I decided upon a locally crafted gold necklace that reminded me of typical southern jewelry. I also spied some handsewn dog stuffed animals - Akela picked a nice cactus as a reminder for our desert time.
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Wanting to fuel your inner "yeehaw"? Look no further than Allen Boots for all your cowboy/girl needs. With rows and rows of boots, hats, spurs, belts, and clothing, you can spend your day getting a southern makeover. The most unique thing about this place, for me, was the array of colors I was immediately drawn to when I walked through that door. Purples, blues, reds, pinks, and other splatterings went as far as the eye could see. A pair of calf-high lavender boots called my name, but the price tag did not. Although these are very high quality boots, as you can tell by the leather smell when you walk through the door, be prepared they come with a corresponding price tag. If you're like me, 300 dollars on a pair of boots I may wear once was not on the table that day. However if your lifestyle is more inclined to dirt roads rather than pavement, then these may be a perfect addition to your wardrobe. In doing a quick browse of their website, they do have sales up to 65% off - so those purple slippers may be coming home with me yet.
Happy shopping y'all!
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They should rename Austin the city of murals. Yet another picture perfect opportunity. With not just a mural, they have their own lock wall for you to proclaim your everlasting love with your one and only. Another unique souvenir shop for the books, however, this one was more eclectic than the others - if you can picture. Frida Kahlo pictures, figurines, and coasters were sporadically placed around the store. From traditional pictures of the iconic figure, to more modern interpretations including tattooed editions in punk rock t-shirts, the creativity and art is seen throughout. They do have a small assortment of "typical" souvenirs including magnets, coasters, keychains, and the like. However, their locally made art is more prominent.
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Bookstores have the ability to transport us to a completely different universe and South Congress Books is no different. Nestled between the hustle and bustle of restaurants, shops, and fast paced traffic on South Congress, this shop gives you a break from reality to step through the pages of your favorite tome. Although the size does not match that of the commercial Barnes and Noble, the variety is there nonetheless. Though commercial bookstores may have a larger selection, South Congress has something those stores can't compete with - collectors editions, signed copies, and those rare novels you can't find on Amazon.
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Now, if you are looking for more cookie cutter souvenirs including shot glasses, knickknacks, t-shirts, and of course the run of the mill keychains and bottle openers, look no further than Austin Gift Company. Although more of a standard "souvenir" shop, they have rows and rows dedicated to local artistry. So, if you are like us and the local shops are closed but you just haven't found that one last souvenir you've been searching for, Austin Gift Co. is bound to have it. They also have a very friendly and helpful Longhorn greet you on the way in. If that leather you were eyeing from Allens wasn't quite in your price range, this shop has some leather coasters you can put on display instead.
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Excursions
Japanese Bamboo Gardens, Koi Ponds, Fairy Villages, Teepees, Moon Bridges, and Butterfly Kingdoms await you in this gorgeous and expansive garden. In browsing Yelp and TripAdvisor for the best excursions and activities around Austin, Zilker Botanical Garden was one of the top rated. The best part about this Garden is that it is pet friendly. We were able to take Akela through the dirt pathways and greet the Koi Fish in the pond - although they were not as eager to "boop" her nose back.
These gardens are INCREDIBLY relaxing and peaceful. I could have sat by the ponds and relaxed (other than the heat) for hours. Although you could explore the entire garden forever, I would highly recommend the more distinct Isamu Taniguchi Japanese Garden. Isamu Taniguchi spent 18 months transforming these 3 acres of untouched forestry into a tranquil space. At the age of 70, he completed this garden without salary or contract. Isamu Taniguchi Japanese Garden was officially opened to the public in 1969. Japanese ponds are often shaped as a word or ideogram. In this case, Taniguchi did continue with his theme and in the first half of the garden the ponds spell out "AUSTIN".
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As I mentioned in the introduction, Mexican Free-Tailed bats are a huge draw for Austin locals and tourists alike. Between the hours of 7:30pm and 9:30pm in the months of March through September these "birds of the night" put on a show for the people standing below and above the South Congress Bridge.
So, why are these aerial cruisers living the urban life in Austin? The answer is simple - human renovation. Renovations occurred in 1980 on the South Congress Bridge and, as formerly known, Town Lake - currently Lady Bird Lake. Since these renovations, one and a half MILLION bats now migrate to make a home under the South Congress Bridge overlooking Lady Bird Lake. This still doesn't answer our question about why these winged creatures chose Austin over Houston. Insects. Mexican free-tailed bats are drawn to are attracted to areas with access to water and warmth. You know what else is attracted to that exact combination? Moths, crickets, grasshoppers, and our resident favorite itch creators - mosquitos. These insects tend to inhabit the waters and land near South Congress Bridge, making it a perfect dinner feasting ground for our dear bats.
Back to my original story, as I stood on the hill at Statesman Bat Observatory Center waiting for these bats to arrive, which can take up to 45 minutes to an hour, I heard a young boy behind me yell "come on bats we're ready!" - my sentiments exactly kiddo. Unfortunately, due to the rain, which can cause exhaustion for the already ferociously flapping animals, we did not get to see the spectacular flight show. However, we did see some of the bats flying around underneath of the bridge - if you blinked you missed them. At first, we thought them to just be glimmers or reflections of light from the water below. Although we could not see them take full flight, we sure heard their chittering under the bridge - I thought them to be cicadas.
If you do plan on seeing this flight show, the best places to observe are from the Statesman Bat Observatory, at which there is a parking fee, or on the South Congress Bridge itself overlooking the bat cave. There are a multitude of other ways to see these winged creatures including renting a kayak, boat, canoe, or paddleboard to enjoy the show from below. Be sure to arrive shortly before sunset as that is typically their feeding and flight time as bats are nocturnal creatures.
The people of Austin love their bats as much as they love their live music and murals. They have adopted these creatures as their unofficial mascot and created a festival in their honor - Bat Fest. This years Bat Fest takes place on August 28th and will include local artists, live music, vendors, food, drinks, and the guests of honor - 1.5 million Mexican free-tailed bats. So, I guess a return trip is in order.
Fun Austin Bat Facts:
Each spring these bats migrate from Mexico
These bats bats eat anywhere from 10,000 to 30,000 pounds of insects a night
The South Congress bats are almost all female
At the end of August, there can be upwards of 1.5 million bats in flight
Firstly, what a name. Being from Pittsburgh (Pennsylvania), when I hear cathedral I immediately think of the Cathedral of Learning - nicknamed by some as "Cathy". The Cathedral of Learning is an iconic building for the University of Pittsburgh housing some of it's entry level classes as well as a variety of Nationality Rooms.
Although they both may be tall, I'm not sure that this cathedral of junk is housing an academic institution. Vince Hannemann, the junk's creator, stated that this was not a "movement" or "art installation", but instead he enjoyed building it and that is has become his "clubhouse". He began this build in 1988 and has added over 60 tons of odds and ends including "lawnmower wheels, car bumpers, kitchen utensils, ladders, cables, bottles, circuit boards, bicycle parts, bric-a-brac, and a lot of stuff that is frankly unidentifiable". Just as the Cathedral of Learning has become an icon for the city of Pittsburgh, the Cathedral of Junk has become a prominent symbol in the neighborhoods within Austin.
Unfortunately, we did not realize that 1. it was in a backyard (as we drove down a residential street I was VERY confused) and 2. We needed an appointment. I attempted to take some pictures from the street as you will see below. Is the keep Austin weird motto making more sense now?
*Please note that this attraction is within the backyard of Vince Hannemann's home. Please be respectful - he does allow tours by appointment only.*
Only designated a National Historic Landmark in 1986, this building was first established as the Capitol of the Republic of Texas in 1839. Between 1839 and 1888, this building had many facelifts before becoming the building standing in the center of Austin today. To view the full history of the capitol between these years, click here. Due to the long history of this building, the following are some myths and legends associated:
The Texas State Capitol is taller than the United States Capitol
True! The Texas state capitol stands 14.64 feet taller than the U.S. Capitol in Washington D.C.
Confederate Gold lies beneath the floors
Although this may still be believed, there is no proof to substantiate this myth. The grounds and floors have been excavated during the 1990s in which no gold was ever found.
A state official was killed within the walls of the capitol
Unfortunately, this one did occur. Robert M. Love, a state comptroller, was shot and killed in his office on June 30, 1903 by a former employee. Love invited this former employee, William Hill, into his office to accept a letter from Hill and was then shot twice in the chest. J.W. Stephens, chief bookkeeper, chased Hill down and after a struggle ensued, Hill was shot and later died.
The first women's restroom was not added until 1966.
This is false actually! When the building was originally opened in 1888, the plans drawn did show a "Ladies Retiring Room". Although they are not next to or across from the men's restrooms, they do in fact exist.
Austin sure lives up to its motto. Bats, food, live music, beer, and shopping what more could you ask for from this WEIRD city. With SO much to offer, this city is perfect for anyone to visit no matter what your taste. Although urban, the locals are a crucial part of the fabric that makes Austin one of the Southern Gems. I highly recommend taking a flight to this neat city.